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Thank God for the cavemen! Perhaps not for all of the cavemen, but most certainly for the one who, turning to his cavewoman as they sat by the fire, said, “Darling, this mastodon tartare is outstanding, but a hot meal once in awhile wouldn’t go amiss! What say we throw a piece of meat on the flames and see how we like it?” That’s the guy whose hand I want to shake. He was the original, the progenitor of each and every steakhouse owner throughout the centuries. And for those of us who are confirmed carnivores, he is a hero of mythic proportions.
Would that our hero could see what his hunger for something new and different led to. He would be amazed by the variety and quality of the meat available, by the methods of preparation, and by the tantalizing herbs, spices, and sauces used to enhance the various cuts. His mind would be boggled by the plethora of steakhouses dotting the landscape. And he would come to find out, as this writer has, that steakhouse dining isn’t just about the meat.
Charlotte has become a cuisine-conscious city. Our restaurants cater to a variety of tastes and sensibilities. But how does one steakhouse distinguish itself from all the others? My assignment, grueling though it might have been, was to explore the steakhouse choices available to the Uptown diner and to determine what, if anything, makes each unique.
My research began in the immediate Uptown area where The Capital Grille, Morton’s, and Ruth’s Chris rule. I then stretched the geographic parameters to include three South Boulevard steak emporiums: Sullivan’s, McIntosh’s, and Beef ‘n Bottle. I focused on quality and quantity of food served, presentation, service style, restaurant décor, and the over all ambience of each restaurant. The data were deliciously illuminating!
One would expect that any restaurant billing itself as a steakhouse would have only the finest cuts of meat, and all of the steakhouses visited lived up to that expectation. Most steaks were prime grade, with an occasional choice cut thrown in. In all instances, the quality of the cuts was not displayed on the menu, but the servers were very willing to share that information. To be fair, I always ordered the same cut of meat—filet mignon, cooked to the same temperature—rare (cool red-to-blue center—I did say I’m a serious carnivore!)--with no sauce accompaniments to sway my palate. In order not to complete the assignment resembling that which I was consuming, I stuck to the smallest filet available, usually an 8- to 12-ounce filet mignon. For sheer tenderness, it is a brilliant cut of meat. These steaks are carved from the tenderloin, a large, but soft muscle along the spine. Since the back is a virtually fat-free part of the animal’s body, the meat has very little marbling, which could make for a less flavorful steak. Cooked to rare, flavor and texture of this cut can be fully appreciated. It will toughen up the more you cook it, but if you order filet mignon well-done, be prepared for sneers, snorts and guffaws from any steak mavens seated nearby. And, if you’re seated close to the kitchen, you may even hear a few curses and the sound of steak knives being hurled at the wait staff! (Well, probably not in these well-heeled restaurants, but you get the idea.)
At all six restaurants, the meat was melt-in-your-mouth tender and juicy, the flavor of each steak always sweetly meaty, but it varied slightly depending on cooking method and seasoning. At Morton’s, The Capital Grille, Sullivan’s and McIntosh’s, steaks are fire grilled. Ruth’s Chris steaks are broiled, and Beef ‘n Bottle’s are griddle grilled. Fire grilling gives the meat a lovely outdoor barbecue taste. Broiler and griddle grilling requires some additional fat at the finish to bring out more flavor. In all cases, the steaks were seasoned perfectly, requiring no additional salt and pepper at the table. Quantity-wise, the petite filets were perfect for my appetite, and no meat was wasted in the writing of this article (perish the thought!).
In that we eat first with our eyes, presentation is a major factor for most restaurants. Steakhouses, however, are in general less concerned with designing the perfect plate, primarily because the only item on the plate is the steak. They also understand their market. Steak eaters are there to tuck into a hunk of protein. End of story. I’m positive that this characteristic of steakhouse patrons was what prompted the move away from including other items on the plate. In all but two cases, menus are totally à la carte, and side items (starches and vegetables) are served family style, in large enough quantities for two or three people to share.
As a confirmed meat centrist, it took a Herculean effort for me to remain true to my assignment and pay attention also to the side dishes offered at the various steakhouses. In retrospect, the effort was well worth it. I avoided the traditional baked potato and opted for either something new and different or for a dish promoted as a specialty of the house. At Sullivan’s, the signature salad—a wedge of Iceberg lettuce with a delectable chunky, blue cheese dressing—was included with all entrees and forced me to rethink my distain for the humblest of all lettuces. The entrees at Beef ‘n Bottle come with a “create your own” salad served family style and a choice of individual sides. I particularly enjoyed their perfectly sautéed mushrooms. Morton’s impressed me with a broiled bacon-wrapped scallop appetizer that was accompanied by slightly spicy apricot chutney; and McIntosh’s serves a divine scalloped potato casserole that is baked in heavy cream. There seem to be no bad sides at Ruth’s Chris, but the Crabtini (tender pieces of crabmeat in a smooth and tangy sauce served over lettuce in a martini glass) steals the show. And, although it is difficult for me to wax poetic about anything green, The Capital Grille chopped salad was absolutely the best of its kind. It owes that designation to the lovely green olive vinaigrette and the surprising addition of crunchy slivers of savory Parmesan croutons, made in house and scattered throughout the salad.
Although actual appearance on the plate is something of a non-issue for most steakhouses, one in particular does pride itself on flourish. That restaurant is Ruth’s Chris. Ruth’s Chris broils their steaks in an 1800-degree broiler and, immediately before service, hits the super-heated steak with butter. As the steak arrives at the table, the steak is hissing, popping and perfuming the air with a rich, meaty and buttery aroma. Ruth’s Chris is, as their ads say, all about the “sizzle!”
As chefs, we believe in the power of our art, that the finest food makes for the finest restaurant. That is only partially true. Discerning patrons expect the food to be perfect but, if perfect food comes with dismissive or careless service, they are prepared to find another place to dine. Fortunately, across the board, the steakhouses I visited were staffed by friendly, well-trained, and knowledgeable servers, hostesses, and managers. The level of service, formal to informal, varied from place to place, but not the level of professionalism (The Capital Grille was the most formal, and Beef ‘n Bottle the most homey). All the servers I encountered were able to answer every one of my questions. All knew their menus (interestingly enough, the menu at Morton’s is both pictorial and written) and the chef’s specials, and every server was willing and able to guide me through wine pairings and choices of accompaniments. In most cases, depending on the busyness of the dining room, service was timely and paced well for the comfortable enjoyment of a luscious meal. As I would expect in a city that prides itself on Southern hospitality, even restaurants spawned in the north (like Morton’s) exuded North Carolina charm.
Dark wood, leather, opulent flower arrangements, and Tiffany-style lighting are de rigueur in steakhouse décor. This combination lends itself to the manly business lunch or dinner feel of the dining rooms at Morton’s, the old world formality of McIntosh’s, and the 1940s speakeasy atmosphere of Sullivan’s. It also allows for a certain comfortable, “important things are happening here” elegance of the nicely appointed Capital Grille, or the family-friendly country feel of Beef ‘n Bottle. Ruth’s Chris, the newest member of the Uptown steakhouses, deviates only slightly from the traditional by using a lighter toned wood and more beige and cream than dark green and black. This change, like the sizzle, sets it a little apart from the competition without sacrificing the upscale steakhouse atmosphere.
As any theatergoer will tell you, the stage set can make or break a production. Likewise, the ambience of a restaurant sets the tone for an afternoon or evening. The steakhouses of Charlotte each have their own unique feel. If you’re closing a business deal, Morton’s is your best bet. The private dining rooms are even referred to as “board-rooms.” I found McIntosh’s and Ruth’s Chris to be the most “probably need to dress up” formal of the six. At Sullivan’s, I stepped back in time to when jazz was king and women dressed in furs and jewels to watch boxing matches. Their dining room has a 1940s anything-goes feel that is both formal and fun. The Beef ‘n Bottle is the most family- friendly of all; it felt as comfortable as sitting around your best friend’s table feels. But for sheer romance, The Capital Grille is the place to go. The booths are roomy and secluded from each other by frosted glass, and although the place has an “important things are happening here” bustle to it, the spaces allow for quiet, intimate conversation.
The great granddaddy of steakhouse owners, that venerable caveman, was very likely only interested in meat rendered more palatable by introducing it to flame. He probably gave no thought to wooing a lady with a steak or getting a name on a contract. For him it was all about the meat. Obviously, we have evolved, as has the steakhouse. No longer only the bailiwick of burly, cigar smoking businessmen, today’s steakhouse has something to offer for every occasion and every taste. And, as we see in the ever-growing number of wonderful steakhouses in Charlotte, it truly isn’t just about the meat.
~ Sue Bartlett
Uptown Steakhouses
George Fine’s Beef ‘n Bottle
4538 South Blvd.
704.523.9977
A longstanding Charlotte favorite; great steaks, casual, family atmosphere; patio seating available; sides and salads included.
McIntosh’s Steaks and Seafood
1812 South Blvd.
704.342.1088
Locally owned; prime steaks aged on site; romantic, old-world setting; à la carte menu.
Morton’s
Uptown
227 W. Trade St.
704.333.2602
Southpark
4331 Barclay Downs Dr.
704.365.1330
From Chicago, the city that knows great steak! Offers a delicious panoply of seafood appetizers; à la carte menu.
Ruth’s Chris
Uptown
222 S. Tryon St.
704.338.9444
Southpark
6000 Fairview Rd.
704.556.1115
Originated in New Orleans; excellent steaks served with style and “sizzle;” elegant setting, top-notch service; à la carte menu.
Sullivan’s Steakhouse
1928 South Blvd.
704.335.8228
Beautifully seasoned, perfectly cooked steaks; jazzy, 1940s setting; try the ahi tuna tartare appetizer.
The Capital Grille
201 North Tryon St.
704.348.1400
Steaks dry-aged on site; warm, romantic atmosphere; terrific wait staff! the chocolate hazelnut cake is a must; à la carte menu.
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