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My story begins on a hot summer day. After biking around the city for over an hour, I decided to make a stop at an old friend’s house to say hello. I found him in the middle of what looked like a giant science experiment in his kitchen.
“What are you doing?” I asked, only to have a glass of cool golden liquid shoved in my hand.
“Try it,” he barked, turning back to his large pot of what resembled old soup. Whatever hesitance I may have had was immediately forgotten after my first sip. The rich, musky aroma was like nothing I had ever experienced. The drink was full of sweet, refreshing, intricate flavors, and yet was light on the tongue. There was an obvious taste of honey with a hint of fruit and spices. Though sweet, it was also quite strong, with a bold kick at the end.
“What is this?”
“Apple mead,” he said, while uncovering a shelf full of glistening glass jars filled with liquids in shades of ruby, gold, and light green. I immediately knew that this experience was no coincidence; I was meant to pursue, to understand, to immerse myself in this wonderful drink called mead.
Mead is, in essence, simply a fermented beverage made of honey and liquid. While there is still much debate about whether beer or wine was made first, there is no doubt that mead has been around for centuries. The cultivation of honey can be traced back to as early as 4,000 B.C., according to Ken Schramm in “The Complete Meadmaker.” Egyptians used honey as a sweetener, as well as for medicinal purposes. Two jars, labeled “honey of good quality,” were even found in Tutankhamen’s tomb.
Mead was most likely discovered by accident. Honey and water left alone for long enough will eventually ferment. The discovery of mead was said to have taken place, unknowingly but simultaneously, in different parts of the world. In each culture it went by different names. Greeks considered it to be sacred and called it ‘ambrosia’ or ‘nectar of the gods.’ The Romans mixed honey and grapes together, creating ‘mulsum.’ The phrase “honeymoon” originated from the clever custom of drinking mead for one month (a moon’s cycle) after the wedding. It was thought that the mead helped with fertility and ensured that the couple would have a boy. Whatever it was called, or however it was made, mead has been a part of civilization for a very long time. Its most basic components are honey, water and yeast.
In my subsequent exploration I found not only the history and several recipes, but I also discovered an entire sub-culture of Charlotteans who are interested in the pursuit of unique and exciting mead-like beverages. One of those people, destined, I am convinced, to be one of my favorite mentors, is Todd Bowman. Bowman has lived in Charlotte since 1990 and is a corporate executive for a major department store chain. At home with his family, though, his designer tie is exchanged for a well-worn apron every time he leaves the modern world to enjoy the ancient art of fermentation. He was the 2003 and 2006 coordinator of Charlotte Oktoberfest, giving him clear insight on what the local home brewing community is up to. In 2004 Todd was dubbed ‘Champion Master Brewer’ of the Carolinas, a sort of ‘Best in Show’ for the brewing world. Though his title was for beer making, the man is no stranger to the subject of honey wine.
“Truly good mead should remind you of its source;” said Bowman over lunch at The French Quarter on Church Street, “good mead starts with good honey.”
To the untrained eye all honey may seem equal. But the best honey, Bowman explained, comes directly from beekeepers themselves. Store-bought honey may have gone through processing and filtering which can rob it of its natural vitamins and enzymes. Also, the consumer can never truly be sure where the bees are pollinating. Beekeepers have a close relationship with their bees, and thus with their honey. Incidentally, beekeepers often moonlight as meadmakers.
Mead may sound exotic and strange, but to the Carolina Brewmasters of Charlotte it is as common as water. The club members make not only home brewed beers, but also ciders and meads. Mead is actually featured in some home-brewing competitions. Bowman has made 15-20 batches of mead in his life. He started brewing in college, not knowing that it would become a lifelong hobby. He finds home brewing of both beer and mead to be therapeutic.
“Brewing is like cooking,” he said, “Not only is there a science to it, but there is also a great deal of artistic freedom.”
Over 7,000 people attended last year’s Oktoberfest, an annual Charlotte event that showcases handcrafted beers and meads, many made locally. This non-profit festival is coming up on its tenth year and continues to be very popular. The money collected at the gate goes to a local charity every year. The artisan brews showcased at Oktoberfest have a fresher taste, are unpasteurized and unfiltered, and, most importantly, have more flavor than most commercially produced beverages. No two batches are the same because the brewers work their magic over each concoction to make it special. New, unique beverages are popping up everywhere because of recent laws that allow brews with a higher alcohol content to be sold in grocery stores.
For centuries the village pub has been the place to gather not only to drink, but also to spend time swapping stories, telling jokes and meeting new people. One would find an artisan beer on tap right next to sourwood mead made with local honey. Beer and wine were seen not just as alcohol but as art to be appreciated. Alcohol was used not only for its euphoric effect but also as a conversation stimulant.
Bowman told me about Rock Bottom, the only brew house in Charlotte. I found it odd that a city this size would have only one pub where local artisan beer is available. Bowman suggested I speak with the owner of Rock Bottom, Dave Gonzalez, another member of the Carolina Brewmasters Club, who turned his long-time hobby into a much appreciated profession. I asked Gonzalez if he considered Rock Bottom to be a community meeting place in Charlotte.
“Yes and no” he said. “The pub does have a Stein Club where customers who come on a regular basis can drink from their personal mug that is kept for them at the bar.” But Rock Bottom is now seen more as a restaurant, and a great many of his customers are coming for the food rather than the beer. Gonzalez has had a few requests for mead, but it takes too long to fully ferment it, and he cannot tie up one of his tanks for the three to six months it needs. On the other hand, Gonzalez considers mead the perfect drink to make at home because it is easy to assemble and it can sit for long periods without needing attention.
“I have a three year old batch at home right now” he said. “It’s ready to be bottled, but I keep forgetting to bring home the sanitizer. What’s great, though, is that it’s okay to sit there until I remember.”
After six months, my first apple mead is still cheerfully brewing and I feel that it is just about ready to drink. It sits on my counter gleaming in the sunlight, and seems to turn a richer shade of gold every week.
Sally Fallon, author of ‘Nourishing Traditions,’ wrote, “Culture begins at the farm, not in the opera house, and binds a people to its land and its artisans.” Making my own mead was simple and incredibly satisfying; I felt like both a farmer and an artisan. Anyone can do it. If you have a bucket, some honey and a pot you are well on your way to creating your first batch. If you are too eager to wait to taste your own, then stop by Brawley’s Beverage or your neighborhood Total Wine and More, where you can find a variety of meads and pick up information on how to make your own. Share your experience with a friend and discuss the rich, intricate, and subtle flavors that are found in a single glass of mead. Then, if you fall under its spell, you might be inspired to start your own batch.
Let me know; these science experiments have a way of becoming a relentless journey, and we who are already on the journey are always looking for fellow travelers.
Carolina BrewMasters is a non-profit organization open to the public which meets on the first Wednesday of each month. Anyone of age is welcome to drop by, talk to the experts, sample the fare and enjoy the festivities. The club offers free educational classes available to those of any skill level. More information can be found online: www.carolinabrewmasters.com
Brawley’s Beverage is located at 4620 Park Rd and is open Monday- Saturday 12:00-7:00 and Sunday 12:00-5:00. More information about their products can be found at www.brawleysbeverage.com
Rock Bottom is located on 401 N. Tryon St. and is open Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-2 a.m. and Sun 11 a.m.-11 p.m. More information at www.rockbottomsouth.com
~ Emily Nolan
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