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“How many times do I have to tell you, I need that report by 5 p.m.?”
“Bowling? Who said anything about bowling! We’ve got Janey’s parent-teacher conference tonight.”
“Lawrence called in sick. You’ll be working a double.”
Life. It’s filled with stressful situations. For most people, the elusive “Calgon, take me away” escape falls somewhere around number 199 on a task list of 200 things to do. Good thing there’s something called “vacation” to save your sanity and whisk you away. And on the Caribbean coast of Central America, your very own paradise awaits.
Belize… the word conjures exotic visions of Caribbean sunsets, hibiscus, and miles of jungle that leads to turquoise waters. A British colony for more than a century, Belize is a predominantly English-speaking country of nearly 9,000 square miles of territory and about 300,000 people; a fairly low population concentration that leaves ocean and lush jungle as far the eye can see. Belize is bordered by Guatemala, Mexico and the Caribbean Sea, but this incredible country has a majesty all its own. While the rainforests sweater the interior in a flourishing blanket of green canopy, jaw-dropping beaches and tiny private islands pepper Belize’s vibrant coast.
Unless you have many days--or even weeks--to travel to this secluded country, it’s hard to decide which area to visit. In fact, there is so much to do in Belize and so many areas to visit, it required two articles to adequately cover. This article is part one of two on the gem of Central America.
It helps to understand how Belize is mapped out before you begin planning your trip. Belize is divided into six districts: Belize, Cayo, Corozal, Orange Walk, Stann Creek and Toledo. We begin our journey in the tiny peninsula of Placencia.
Town and Country
Placencia is an easy destination for travelers new to Belize and many hotels have an all-in-one offering of water, jungle, and lodging packages within a few hours travel. The town of Placencia is like many Caribbean towns, one block brims with charm while one street over there is evidence of devastating poverty. Belize is a melting pot of multiple cultures with more than 10 different ethnic and religious cultures. This colorful blending of peaceful people, which includes transplanted New Yorkers and other expatriates, makes it a truly global community.
From town storefronts that boast laundry and bagels in the same menu of services, to galleries filled with tribal works of art where no two pieces are the same, in Belize every pathway can be an adventure in the making if you let your exploratory spirit be the guide. Wander into the town of Placencia and you’ll find yourself in a village where past and present collide. Local men play dominoes. At the end of a tiny walkway, quaint shorefront hotels like the Tradewinds and its nine brightly colored cabanas beckon discovery. Some shops display modern clothing while in others Mayan women still weave colorful masterpieces the same way they have been doing for hundreds of years – sitting on a dirt floor, loom in hand.
All that exploring will leave you hungry, so while in the town of Placencia stop off at Detach for a batch of unspeakably delicious conch fritters and an ice cold glass bottle of Coca-Cola, which seems to be the drink of choice everywhere you look in Placencia.
Belize is a visually attention-grabbing destination with color and atmosphere woven throughout. In Belize, the scenery is available in surround sound – a chorus of wildlife, tides breaking on shore and the sound of palm trees swaying in the wind accompany views of iguanas, tropical parrots and other avian species. If you’re lucky enough to stay at The Inn at Robert’s Grove, this soothing soundtrack and feature film are presented in high definition.
The Inn at Robert’s Grove
As is the case with most adventures, knowing the locals really makes the moments. Innkeepers Robert and Risa Frackman made a home on the shores of Placencia from chilly Manhattan many years ago. Soon, a house became an inn and then became a destination for hundreds of repeat guests. The Inn at Robert’s Grove is a place you can go to either to fall into hammocks every day or be more active than you are at home. Leisurely breakfast against the backdrop of white sand and ocean waves is followed by quality reading time underneath the shade of a palm. An earlier morning rise can lead to an eight-hour hike through the rainforest to Mayan ruins with a side of cave swimming or a cool dip in a tropical waterfall.
Visitors to Robert’s Grove are often busy snorkeling, touring ruins, and SCUBA diving by day, so falling into bed on the early side is standard here. Thanks to Saturday night barbecues with live island music (and crepe station), socializing with fellow travelers is effortless and uncomplicated at Robert’s Grove. Some island resorts with this level of service and accommodations regularly play host to the upper crust traveler who would sooner slap you than make conversation. But at Robert’s Grove, the set-up of lodging and lounging encourages people to mix and intertwine. Activities available here through the concierge and tour planning services are like bonding experiences. Robert’s Grove guides are some of the most knowledgeable in the region, so day trippers spend mornings and afternoons touring Mayan ruins, waterfalls, and rainforests and engaging in water sports together. In the early afternoon on these trips everyone breaks bread together over a lunch provided by Robert’s Grove. Guests say running into fellow adventurers on the pier bar later that afternoon or at the barbecue on Saturday night is like you’ve known them all your life. One commented “It’s almost as if Risa and Bob [Frackman] interview every guest before they visit to make sure everyone will get along,” while another guest who recently made her third trip to Robert’s Grove said it is the only place where she “feels truly peaceful.”
The Inn at Robert’s Grove is a place best suited for amazing activities followed by low key evenings, good food, and conversation with a well-liked companion. The service here is impeccable on all fronts. The rooms at Robert’s Grove are not the stuff chain hotels are made of. Comfortably appointed suites are haute island chic with a most interesting master bathroom and décor replete with wooden masks and luscious, bold island colors. Many room suites have a personal deck equipped with hammocks, lounge chairs, and tables. The highlight of the master bedroom is the bed the Frackman’s chose for the suites – a bed so comfortable it could almost be considered a narcotic. The Seaside restaurant at Robert’s Grove features masterpieces of blackened (chef’s own blackened recipe) or grilled snapper and flavorful shrimp dishes reminiscent of traditional island foods. Diners can also choose from imported beef, but don’t leave without having the shrimp nachos. The breakfast buffet at the Seaside Restaurant always includes fresh fruit and perfectly robust coffee. Across the street at Habaneros, which overlooks the Robert’s Grove Marina, the tequila/cilantro shrimp entrée is an explosion of flavor.
Go, do
Activities in Belize are numerous. This overview touches barely scratches the surface of what this country has to offer. Guests staying in the Placencia area can easily navigate a vacation that includes SCUBA and snorkeling off a private island such as Ranguana, which is leased by the Inn at Robert’s Grove. Guests can stay in utter privacy on either Ranguana or Robert’s Caye, both private islands where guests can go straight from bed to ocean. The longest barrier reef in the western hemisphere is located here along with three coral atolls. Robert’s Grove employs outstanding guides who know where to stop along the well marked trails of places like the Cockscomb Jaguar Preserve. Hiking to and swimming in one of the chilly Cockscomb waterfalls among staggering tropical vegetation will raise your perspective (as well as your heart rate!) to new levels. Hikers can stop at a the wreckage of a plane that crashed in this tropical forest some years ago, and meet the world’s most amazing ants marching by the thousands. These walking miracles haul leaves and flower petals many times their body weight, constructing ant highways along the way. And if hiking and swimming and snorkeling aren’t on your radar this trip, amidst some of the worlds most beautiful landscapes visitors can always count on another favorite activity to satisfy during their stay in Belize… simply doing nothing.
Getting there
Continental flies to Houston from Charlotte and on to Belize City for anywhere from $409 to $683, and US Airways now has a direct flight from Charlotte to Belize City. Either way, unless you’re staying near Belize City, airlines including Maya Air and Tropic Air will take you to your final destination.
Stay tuned for Belize, Part 2 – The Jungle, the Ruins, and the big Blue Hole – coming soon to Uptown Magazine. For more information on Belize or for help planning your trip, visit TravelBelize.org.
~ Kelly Gray
Photography courtesy of Catherine M Lee
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