On an early-summer evening, he ambles through the door and looks around to see if anything is out of place. He talks to the manager-on-duty for updates on the happenings of the evening. She points, he looks, and they smile. The two appear to have a family-like bond, like relatives who actually like each other. Shortly thereafter, Bazzelle inconspicuously checks tables, eyes the big fluffy desserts atop the counter, and approves of what his chefs are crafting on the grill behind the steamy glass partition. He almost seems to be camouflaged, as if he’s a patron, until he eases behind the counter like he owns the place.

This place is the eleven-year-old storefront restaurant aptly named Mert’s Heart and Soul. Mert’s is one of the original storefront restaurants in Charlotte’s new Uptown area and, according to Bazzelle, former Bank of America CEO Hugh McColl even had a hand in its creation. The eclectically decorated eatery sits at 214 North College Street, a stone’s throw from the corner of College and Fifth Streets.

From the outside you can’t really grasp the “heart and soul” through the oversized glass windows. But once you swing open the door, an ethereal heart and soul quality comes rushing at you like DeAngelo Williams in the fourth quarter. James Bazzelle wanted it this way. The father of four envisioned a family-style establishment where his patrons could enjoy themselves and feel like kicking their feet up and rubbing their bellies in satisfaction. Except I wouldn’t suggest actually kicking your feet up. This is a respectable place that might even have a grandmother emerging from the back to smack your ankles with a rolled up newspaper if you did. In fact, it was Mertle Lockhart, James Bazzelle’s favorite grandmother-like patron, for whom Mert’s Heart and Soul is named.

“Mrs. Lockhart would come in to my first restaurant during the lunch buffet. She was a feisty woman who wore bright colors and big jewelry. And she loved my cooking,” Bazzelle reminisces.

Mertle Lockhart was one of many patrons that loved James Bazzelle’s cooking because it seems that James Bazzelle was born to cook. He is from Athens, Georgia and discovered his love of cookery after enrolling in a home economics class in high school. From there, he attended Athens Vocational College, earned an Associate’s Degree, and started his own catering business.

“My parents never talked about college. Everyone mainly worked in the local plant doing the same thing every day. I told myself that I wanted something different,” he confesses. Relocating to Charlotte in the early 1990’s, James produced meals for Holiday Inn and later had the idea to create his own dishes for his first restaurant, Georgia on Tryon. During its three-year run, Georgia on Tryon served original recipes of healthy baked meats and tasty sides. Along with his original healthy dishes, the iconic Shrimp and Grits was one of the favorites on the menu. After learning that everyone wasn’t quite ready for his unconventional idea of wholesome-Low-Country-meets-down-home-soul-food, Georgia on Tryon closed its doors.

Bazzelle and his wife went back to the drawing board, drafting a slightly different menu. He wanted to appeal to his former customers, entice new patrons such as taste-driven “meat-atarians” and dedicated vegetarians, and all the while incorporate more health-conscious selections containing all of the flavor one expects from true Southern cuisine. With this revamped philosophy, James Bazzelle compromised with his followers and incorporated fried chicken and fish. However, he didn’t budge on using fresh vegetables and healthier cooking oils.

I’m a vegetarian, and Bazzelle’s philosophy has served me well. On even the most vegetarian-friendly menus I get headaches searching for something that’s healthy yet tasty. But I’ve been eating at Mert’s regularly for a year and a half and I’m never frustrated.

On my first visit, before even perusing the menu, I thought I would have to concoct my own weird veggie plate as I always do at restaurants—omitting this, modifying that, and making sure it wasn’t boiled in chicken broth. My entrée order typically ends with me apologizing for being difficult, the servers telling me it’s okay while mentally stabbing themselves with their No. 2 pencil.

At Mert’s, I was able to order the actual Veggie Plate Dinner with Okra and Tomatoes, Macaroni and Cheese, and Sweet Yams. It took me twenty seconds flat to decide, and I modified nothing. Minutes later, a smiling server scooted a modest plate in front of me. Initially I thought, Is this it? That was before I learned that in a society where bigger is thought to be better, Bazzelle decided to discredit that myth by serving meals comparable to those served years ago, before the appearance of “super size” menus. Healthy food and healthy portions are his aim.

I wasted no time digging into my meal. The bowl of okra and tomatoes was first. I used my fork to scoot a small bit of both onto my fork, not knowing what to expect. Okra is typically slimy and cooked tomatoes are known to lose their density, but I was pleasantly surprised. The perfectly balanced flavors exploded in my mouth. The hearty chunks of tomatoes complemented the slices of okra in a way that no other vegetable can. The natural juice created by this marriage was so delightful I requested a spoon to scoop the remainder that hid in the bottom of the bowl.

The mac and cheese was next on the plate and it didn’t disappoint me. I’ve tasted this dish prepared a variety of ways, from versions with bread crumbs sitting on top to ones where pimentos had been tossed in, and while I’m sure there are other hidden ingredients added, the version at Mert’s seems as if it is made simply from cheddar cheese and macaroni shells, baked to perfection.

Next, to top off the meal, was the bowl of yams. I purposely saved it for last because this vegetable, at least for me, serves double-duty as a flattering side item and an appealing dessert. The butter and cinnamon, and what tastes like honey contrasted nicely with the salted notes in the previous dishes. I scraped the bottom of my bowl, and even dumped it over to get the last drip that hid in the curve. I was deeply satisfied.

On my next visit the same week, I swapped the mac and cheese for thick mashed potatoes and enjoyed them just as much. I also bragged about the place to a friend and decided to treat him to my new discovery. At the end of the meal, the friend sat across the table from me and gnawed on his fingers, savoring the oversized chicken wings he’d just devoured. He also finished off a bowl of collard greens that were piled high with fresh chopped onions and tomatoes.

Over the last eighteen months, having frequented Mert’s Heart and Soul regularly and gotten to know the modest health activist behind the scenes, I’ve developed a new appreciation for James Bazzelle and his quest for a healthier life for his customers. I’ve also become one of his biggest fans. This isn’t a man who wanted to become famous by fattening his patrons while fluffing his pockets. For eleven years, James Bazzelle has relentlessly dedicated himself to Mert’s Heart and Soul, and to the city of Charlotte, in attempts to undo the harmful stereotypes of fatty Southern cooking. Not many are aware of the subtle battle he is fighting on our behalf. As a witness to this mission, I assure you that he continues to greatly exceed expectations.

Mert’s Heart and Soul located at 214 North College Street, operates Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. For more information about the restaurant, visit mertsuptown.com or call 704.342.4222.

~ Dawn Cauthen