Elements of an Uptown Burger Experience

Leave it to the ancient Greeks to have predicted what’s necessary to create the perfect burger experience in 21st century North Carolina. To be fair, when the toga-types twigged to the four basic elements—earth, wind, water and fire—they weren’t considering that their philosophical musings would be applied to something as pedestrian as a plate of food. They were more interested in sorting out the vagaries of the universe. But as a pedestrian in Uptown Charlotte, pounding the pavement for an exemplary meal on a bun, I am indebted both to them and to Nick LaVecchia, who has united these four elements—with an essential fifth—to create a dining experience Socrates would die for, had hemlock not gotten to him first.

Nick, who is not Greek but Italian, and—as evidenced by his two other wonderfully successful restaurants, LaVecchia’s Steaks and Seafood and Old Stone Steakhouse—understands the five-basic-element theory and has run with it.

The beauty of Uptown living and dining is that virtually everything is within walking distance. NIX Burger & Brew is no exception. Its address is 201 North Tryon Street, but don’t be deceived. The restaurant is really on Fifth Street, just around the corner from the Capital Grille, and worlds away from the busy hustle and bustle of Tryon. As you walk to it, you’ll sense that the place has a certain backstreet earthiness generally not found where the lights are brighter and the crowds are bigger. It has that “hole-in-the-wall burger joint” feel of a place you discover by accident and can’t wait to go back to.

But a “hole in the wall” it isn’t. NIX is undeniably small, which only adds charm to its brick-and-chrome, bare-bulb-and-steel-keg décor that, in a bigger space, might seem industrial and cold. It has intimate booths, open tables, and stools at the bar for comfortable seating options whether you’re there alone, as a couple, or in a group.

If you have a mind to leave four walls and air conditioning behind, NIX offers sidewalk seating on Fifth Street, where you can get back to the earth, Uptown style, and feel the wind on your face while you watch the passersby. My first visit to NIX was in early summer, when the weather was pleasant. I chose a table on the sidewalk. I felt like I had stepped into another culture where little bistros open onto the street and patrons regularly enhance their meals by eating in the fresh air beneath the night sky. I enjoyed watching the lights flicker on and listening to the sounds of the city at play.

When the Greeks proposed water as a basic element, I’m imagining that they meant to say “beer.” Why else would NIX be called Burger & Brew? Its beer selections range from the local Carolina Blonde to the usual domestics, like Budweiser, Coors and Miller, and then all the way to the other end of the beer universe, where brews with enticing names like Bell’s Two Hearted Ale, Seadog Blueberry, and Rogue Dead Guy are created. It is almost more than a beer aficionado can stand. The beer selection alone will keep me coming back. That—and, of course, the amazing burgers.

NIX burgers are where the elements unite in perfect harmony. For a burger to be memorable, the meat itself must be of the finest quality. For the meat to be good, the beasts that provide it must be well provided for. Although I can’t certify that NIX burgers come from happy cows, the beef certainly tastes like it does.

Jim Morasso, manager of NIX, explained why their burgers taste so good. The beef they use comes from the Stock Yards, purveyors to many of the big-name steak houses, and the beef is ground to exact specifications. The basic burgers are made from 100 percent Choice Angus beef.  For an additional $4 you can substitute American bison or Kobe beef. The burgers are juicy and flavorful, as if the animals they came from had plenty of healthy food from the earth, good water from clear streams, or, in the case of the Kobe burgers, good beer, and lots of fresh air. Snake River Ranch is the source of both the Kobe beef and American bison. Both make excellent burgers. For the less carnivorous, the restaurant also offers turkey- and veggie-burgers.

If Rule No. 1 is to start with wonderful meat, then Rule No. 2 must be to cook it well. For NIX that means fire. As implied by the bright neon flame outside the door, the flickering flames projected on the wall, and the very recognizable logo, NIX is a place where fire rules. All NIX burgers are flame grilled. It’s apparent in their appearance, their look, and in their taste. The burgers are beautifully charred on the outside and cooked to a juicy, succulent medium on the inside. The first flavor to hit the palate speaks of flame and open air; the second, earth and water. The third, fourth, fifth flavors come from the incredible toppings.

I asked Jim why NIX chose to flame grill. “It’s simple,” he said. “It tastes like the backyard!” I totally agree with that piece of burger philosophy. The flame grilling revives memories of childhood picnics and the carefree days of summer. It’s a bite of the Fourth of July.

NIX burgers run the topping gamut from the Classic American Cheeseburger to the exotic and unexpected French Onion Cheeseburger, with caramelized onions and Gruyere cheese. The PittsBurger is a mouthful, piled high with crinkle fries, slaw, bacon, cheddar, and Thousand Island dressing. For that “after the party” burger binge, the Charlotte Late Night Burger has an enticing combination of fried egg, bacon, chili, and homemade pimento cheese. And if you’re a child of the South, there is always the “Ham” Burger, with a topping of Virginia ham, cheddar, and barbecue sauce.

Man does not live by burgers alone. If that were not so, why would the side dishes be so great? At NIX, the sides are as outstanding as the burgers. I’ve personally enjoyed, in one meal—and at the risk of popping a few buttons—both the Bacon & Bleu Cheese Crinkle Fries and the Sweet Potato Fries. For something cool and crisp, both the Bleu Cheese and Bacon Coleslaw and the Cucumber Salad are excellent. As for starters, try the fried pickles. They are among the best in town.  According to Jim, it all comes down to the type of pickle used. NIX starts with Schwartz Kosher Dills, pickled fresh, not cooked, and double coated before they hit the fryer. The fried pickles retain their crunch, are beautifully garlicky, and with a coating that’s amazingly light and crisp.

Till now, I have neglected to name the fifth element to a great meal. It is quintessence. Quintessence is hard to define and quantify because it alludes to something not easily quantifiable in the material world. It is the je ne sais quoi to the French, or perhaps the American notion of “ambience.” But its ethereal quality does not make it less of a factor in the dining experience. For me, the fifth element is essential to a great evening out. It can be something as seemingly inconsequential as the smile of the host or hostess, the server who goes the extra mile, or the way the food is arranged on the plate. Sometimes it is the people I dine with, the mood of the other patrons, or my reason for being in that place at that time. It is what unifies earth, wind, water, and fire, and it’s alive and well at NIX each time I dine there.

Here’s hoping that when you stop for a burger at NIX, you too have your own full-course, five-element experience.  Earth, wind, fire, beer, and quintessence—what’s not to like?

NIX Burger & Brew
201 North Tryon Street
Suite 1010
704.347.BREW
Open seven Days for lunch, dinner and late night

BY: SUE BARTLETT